{"id":4314,"date":"2012-03-15T18:47:24","date_gmt":"2012-03-15T18:47:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/?page_id=4314"},"modified":"2012-03-19T22:56:43","modified_gmt":"2012-03-19T22:56:43","slug":"garden-news-issue-30","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/library\/garden-news-issue-30\/","title":{"rendered":"Garden News Issue 30"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4330 aligncenter\" title=\"Garden News\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/masthead3only.gif\" alt=\"Garden News\" width=\"498\" height=\"93\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/masthead3only.gif 498w, https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/masthead3only-300x56.gif 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 498px) 100vw, 498px\" \/><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4453 aligncenter\" title=\"divider\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider.gif\" alt=\"divider\" width=\"590\" height=\"5\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider.gif 830w, https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider-450x5.gif 450w, https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider-700x5.gif 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 590px) 100vw, 590px\" \/><br \/>\n<span style=\"font-size: x-small\">Issue 30 &#8226; Seasonal tips and featured varieties coming to a <a href=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/?page_id=3106\">retailer near you<\/a> &#8226; June 18, 2009<\/span><br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4453 aligncenter\" title=\"divider\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider.gif\" alt=\"divider\" width=\"590\" height=\"5\" srcset=\"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider.gif 830w, https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider-450x5.gif 450w, https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/divider-700x5.gif 700w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 590px) 100vw, 590px\" \/><\/p>\n<h1>Watering Your Garden<\/h1>\n<p>\n<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/images\/Universum_phixr.jpg\" alt=\"Garden News\" width=\"250\" height=\"385\" class=\"alignleft\" \/>It&rsquo;s almost here&hellip;.<br \/>\nSummer officially arrives this weekend, with summer solstice  at 10:45 PM on Saturday, June 20th.&nbsp;  As warm, dry weather settles in, it&rsquo;s important that vegetable plants  receive the right amount of water at the crucial stages in their development. <\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: bold\">Watering Methods<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Most Northwest gardens can&rsquo;t depend on rains to supply much  moisture in the summer, so it&rsquo;s up to gardeners to get water to their  plants.&nbsp; Depending on your garden setup  and size, available time and money, and preference, this may mean watering by  hand, laying out drip or soaker hoses, setting up an overhead sprinkler, or  some combination of these methods.&nbsp; Each  has its pros and cons:&nbsp; <\/p>\n<p>Watering by hand with a hose is simple and cheap, without  investment in any specialized irrigation equipment.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s also precise, allowing you to water only  the plants you need to and keep water directed at the ground to avoid wetting  the foliage.&nbsp; Use a watering wand with breaker and valve for best control. However, if you have a big  garden, it can take a long time, and unless you have a very simple layout with  straight rows and wide aisles, it can be complicated dragging the hoses around  to reach everything (without knocking over all the other plants in the  way).&nbsp;&nbsp; <\/p>\n<p>Sprinklers are also easy and cheap, but will soak  everything, including foliage and ripening fruits.&nbsp; Diseases often spread more easily when leaves  are wet and some fruits can develop soft spots or start to rot if they get wet  and stay wet.&nbsp; If you garden on a hill or  have clay soils, sprinklers may water too fast, with water running off of beds  rather than soaking in to reach vegetables&rsquo; roots.&nbsp; This is the least efficient method, losing a  lot of water to evaporation and runoff.<\/p>\n<p>Soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems let you water very  precisely (right at a plant&rsquo;s base, keeping foliage dry), very slowly (so water  can seep down to the roots), very easily (once it&rsquo;s set up, you just turn on  the hose &ndash; you can even put it on a timer), and very efficiently, with all the  water soaking into the soil where plants can use it.&nbsp; The downside is that it costs more and is  more complicated to set up each season.&nbsp;  Hoses also need to be rolled up and stored for the winter.<br \/>\n&nbsp;<br \/>\nFor more on how each of these methods work, plus a few other  suggestions, see:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/catalog\/html\/grow\/grow\/water.html\">http:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/catalog\/html\/grow\/grow\/water.html<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/msucares.com\/lawn\/garden\/vegetables\/watering\/index.html\">http:\/\/msucares.com\/lawn\/garden\/vegetables\/watering\/index.html<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vegetableexpert.co.uk\/WateringSystems.html\">http:\/\/www.vegetableexpert.co.uk\/WateringSystems.html<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: bold\">General Watering Guide<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/images\/Watering.jpg\" alt=\"Garden News\" width=\"200\" height=\"181\" class=\"alignleft\" \/>However you decide to get the water to the plants, keep  these tips in mind:<\/p>\n<p>How often and much to water?&nbsp;  <br \/>\nDepending on the climate and soil composition, most vegetables need one  or two inches of water per week.&nbsp; Hot,  dry, sunny and\/or windy weather will increase the need for irrigation, as will  sandy, fast-draining soils.&nbsp; Cool, humid,  cloudy, still weather and clay soils decrease the amount you&rsquo;ll need to  water.&nbsp; Usually, soil in the root zone  should stay consistently moist but not so waterlogged that roots get  suffocated.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s best to water deeply  but infrequently (every 5-7 days in hot weather), to encourage the development  of strong, deep root systems.&nbsp; Shallowly  rooted vegetables (like lettuce or radishes), recent transplants, and  germinating seeds will need to be watered more often but less deeply.&nbsp; The best way to check if it&rsquo;s time to water  is to stick a finger down into the soil about 2 inches deep.&nbsp; If it feels moist, the plants still have  water available to their roots; if it&rsquo;s dry, it&rsquo;s time to water.<\/p>\n<p>When to water?&nbsp; <br \/>\nIt&rsquo;s  best to water in the morning.&nbsp; This has  several advantages: it&rsquo;s cooler, so you lose less water to evaporation; plants  are less likely to spread diseases if their leaves have time to dry off before  the cool evening sets in; and the soil will have a chance to warm back up in  the heat of the day, so plant growth doesn&rsquo;t slow.<\/p>\n<p>Soils, especially clayey ones, can develop a crust on top  that causes water to run off rather than soaking in.&nbsp; To keep this from happening, cultivate the  area around plants, lightly breaking up the surface of the soil with a small  rake or hoe before watering.&nbsp; Don&rsquo;t go  too deep, or you&rsquo;ll disturb plant roots; just fluff up the top layer enough  that water has pockets and cracks to seep down into.&nbsp; Digging a shallow trench next to a row of  vegetables or forming a low &ldquo;bowl&rdquo; of soil around each plant also helps direct  water to the roots.&nbsp; Fill the trench or  bowl, letting water slowly soak down before you fill it again.&nbsp; This is probably best done as you sow or  transplant, however, so you don&rsquo;t disturb a plant&rsquo;s roots once it&rsquo;s  established. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/images\/house.jpg\" alt=\"Garden News\" width=\"300\" height=\"197\" class=\"alignleft\" \/>Containers always dry out more quickly than the ground, so  check them often if you&rsquo;re gardening in patio pots or hanging baskets.&nbsp; Water containers slowly enough that soil  doesn&rsquo;t wash out the top, but long enough that water reaches all the way to the  bottom.&nbsp; <\/p>\n<p>And, of course, try not to over water &ndash; that can leach  nutrients from the soil and even drown plants&rsquo; roots, depriving them of the  oxygen they need to grow.&nbsp; Deep,  infrequent waterings allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out and keep  plants from getting waterlogged.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: bold\">Plant by Plant<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Consistent water is especially crucial during certain stages  for each type of vegetable.&nbsp; Below is an  overview for some of the most popular garden veggies.&nbsp; For a more complete, detailed list, see:<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.harvestwizard.com\/2009\/05\/watering_vegetables_critical_t.html\">http:\/\/www.harvestwizard.com\/2009\/05\/watering_vegetables_critical_t.html<\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Beans (green, lima, dry, etc.) &ndash; during flowering and pod  formation<\/li>\n<li>Broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage &ndash; during head  formation<\/li>\n<li>Carrots, turnips, radish, beets &ndash; when forming  roots (basically from sowing to harvest)<\/li>\n<li>Corn &ndash; as silks, tassels, and ears form<\/li>\n<li>Cucumbers &ndash; during flowering and fruit formation<\/li>\n<li>Lettuce and greens &ndash; consistent even moisture  from sowing to harvest<\/li>\n<li>Melons &ndash; as buds, flowers, and fruit develop<\/li>\n<li>Onions, garlic, shallots &ndash; as tops grow and  bulbs start to enlarge (see note below)<\/li>\n<li>Peppers, tomatoes, eggplants &ndash; flowering through  harvest (see note below)<\/li>\n<li>Squash and pumpkins &ndash; as buds, flowers, and  fruit develop (see note below)&nbsp;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>NOTE: Sometimes withholding water can be helpful in encouraging  plants to ripen their fruit.&nbsp; If you cut  off all watering in mid- to late- August, tomatoes will put their energy into  ripening their existing fruits rather than setting new ones that won&rsquo;t mature  before frosts.&nbsp; For longer-storing  onions, garlic, and shallots, stop watering when the foliage starts to turn  yellow, so their outer skins start drying out before harvest.&nbsp; When the leaves of winter squash or pumpkin  plants start to yellow in the fall, stop watering so they can start to dry out  and develop hard rinds for storage.<\/p>\n<p>\nPrevious issues of Garden News are in the <a href=\"http:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/?page_id=3713\">Log House Library<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Issue 30 &#8226; Seasonal tips and featured varieties coming to a retailer near you &#8226; June 18, 2009 Watering Your Garden It&rsquo;s almost here&hellip;. Summer officially arrives this weekend, with summer solstice at 10:45 PM on Saturday, June 20th.&nbsp; As warm, dry weather settles in, it&rsquo;s important that vegetable plants receive the right amount of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":3109,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4314"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4314"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4314\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4582,"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4314\/revisions\/4582"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/3109"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/loghouseplants.com\/plants\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4314"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}