Books That Build Us

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Books I Love

Books That Become Friends

Yesterday a dear friend sent me an article by Salman Rushdie called Ask Yourself Which Books You Truly Love. The author talks about the power of story and the kind of stories that get told and re-told in different cultures and at different times, then challenged readers to figure out which books we truly love. Rushdie thinks that the books and stories we love make us who we are, though that can certainly change over time. It started me thinking about the books that have meant the world to me throughout my life, some of which have definitely shape my world view.

One of the first books that I can recognize as deeply influential was Blue Mystery by Margot Benary-Isbert, and to a lesser extent, her Wicked Enchantment. Both were translated into English when I was just beginning to read to myself and I loved them as stories about magic and brave girls who stood up against injustice and loved plants and animals as much or more than people. Only on reading them to my granddaughter did I discover how deeply this author shaped my attitudes about and relationship with the natural world through her passion and respect for wild things.

Outgrowing Old Favorites

These books still offer a great deal of enjoyment, unlike another great early influence, The Lord Of The Rings. I discovered that trilogy when I was eight or nine and read it over and over for many years. Last year, when I turned to this beloved book for comfort in the dire times, I was saddened to see more misogyny than enchantment. Tolkien’s nature writing is still lovely, but his characters are shallow and the women are just paper dolls. Similarly, I can’t read Dorothy Sayers—once a great favorite—with pleasure anymore, as I keep getting caught by her racism and classism.

That’s true of the Little House books too; they have sections that are truly awful and I can’t in good conscience read them to my granddaughter. Instead, we’re reading Caddie Woodlawn, a pioneer story set in a similar time period but with a far more respectful presentation of Native Americans, as well as the truly delightful Tea Dragon Society series, which is lovingly respectful to everyone and everything in nature.

Books That Made Me A Gardener

In my college years, a friend’s dad who worked at Rodale Press donated a bunch of organic gardening books to guide our newly formed Big Brother Big Sister community garden project. I memorized those books and was enchanted with soil building, turning garbage into compost, and watching beans sprout from dry seeds into soaring vines with leafy wings. A few years later, a clerk at my neighborhood coop gave me a battered copy of Vita Sackville-West’s Garden Book and I moved from vegetable love to infatuation with ornamentals. Vita was a poet and a vivid writer who taught me to really LOOK at flowers and foliage, buds and branches. She also got me using a magnifying glass to discover the tiny details that reveal the natural magic of the plant world, something my grandkids now enjoy as well.

My fellow New Englander, Ruth Stout, was another early influence, practicing practical soil healing and feeding plants with her own compost. Down to earth and wryly witty, she intelligently simplified the information she imparted, rather than obscuring it, as high falutin garden writers of the time tended to do. Instead of writing down to the lowly, she wrote as a neighbor and a friend, offering useful information backed up by science when available and always by experience. Margery Fish had a similarly pragmatic style; she came to gardening late in life, after a successful career, and viewed conventional wisdom as a guideline to be tinkered with freely. She taught me to experiment and try things that “shouldn’t” work, and if they didn’t, to try again, changing variables, until I could figure out why this or that plant preferred certain conditions.

Natural Love

I think I’m a writer because of Louise Dickinson Rich, whose book, We Took To The Woods, I bought for a nickel at a library book sale when I was in second grade. Louise knew she wanted to be a writer and live in the woods and she by gum did it, however unlikely that was for a woman in the 1930s. Homesteading in the midst of thousands of acres of deep woods, she held a more practical view of nature than other writers I admired, making it clear that living in the wild was not a stroll in the park. Later, I spent a year at 10,000 feet in the Rockies, in a small and funky log cabin abandoned after a gold mine shut down. As I hauled water and cut and split astonishing amounts of deadwood for our tinny little wood-stove, I remembered that book and those lessons with gratitude.

Since I grew up back East, I spent that year wandering around the mountains, learning just where I was and what was going on all around me. I sketched wildflowers and birds in the meadows and fish in the little streams, then looked them up in fat handbooks by night, reading by lamp light, memorizing their habits and intertwining families. One patch of avalanche lilies would all have black stamens, while another cluster not far away would have fluffy, golden stamens. What was that about? How did ouzels manage to walk under water? Why were the fish tiny in this stream and plump in that one? Why were the floating sheets of tiny bugs that clogged the streams all black over here and bright orange over there? Why are the shooting stars so tiny as you go higher up the mountain?

A Pattern Language

Learning to make sense of all these patterns and many more helped me feel grounded in this new territory. I felt far from the tame New England woods and meadows of my childhood, yet found comfort in identifying cousin families of plants and critters I knew well. Later still, when I began designing gardens, I found The Pattern Language book an enormous help, as the various patterns it presents explain why people never use this bench but often use that one, or why some parts of a garden never get used despite being as well planted as another area that saw constant use.

Now in my 70th year, reflecting on all this helps me see these influences on my patterns of thought and action that I hadn’t recognized before. I was an odd and lonely kid, with few friends and very little congenial family, so it was natural to make friends with books instead. The people in my favorite stories were as real to me as anyone I interacted with, and much more fun to be around. The ideas and skills my book friends gave me helped shape who I am, how I experience the world, and what I do well. I started reading very early and remain a constant reader, finding books that stretch me, like Amber Ruffin’s You’ll Never Believe What Happened To Lacey, an almost unbelievable true series of vignettes that will curl your hair worse than any horror movie.

How About YOU?

So how about you? Are you befriended by books as well? Have your old favorites held up to the test of time? I’m always bemused when people tell me they never re-read a book, because re-reading a book I truly love is like visiting a dear friend in a much-loved environment; I can relax into it, enjoying the familiarity even as I freshly notice details and nuances that I might not have been ready for earlier.

This past year-plus of woe has enabled me to see shades and shadows I may have missed or glossed over before, in my comfort reading as well as my challenge books. Living in the present also affirms my deep and abiding love for both the wildness of natural world and the smaller, more comfortable world of gardens and gardening. That balance and that grounding has helped me stay sane (more or less), and I’m so grateful for it. All of it. How about you?

 

 

Posted in Garden Design, Health & Wellbeing, Native Plants, Plant Diversity, Social Justice, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living, Teaching Gardening | Tagged , | 8 Comments

Ancient Weeds Don’t Give Up Easily

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Dino food is still with us

Out, Out Damned Horsetail

This weekend I visited a wonderful older garden with a magnificent berm overlooking Puget Sound. It was good to have such a satisfying vista to admire because looking at the berm made my heart ache. Lovely as the plants were, the entire bed badly needed enrichment and overhauling, which would be a big job. However, the most discouraging thing about it was that almost every inch was covered with fluffy fronds of emerging horsetail. It made me grateful that the owner’s eyesight is failing; the big picture is still delightful but closer views are seriously daunting.

 As gardeners quickly learn, horsetail is one tough plant: Pull it, spray it, do what you will; back it comes, stronger than ever. That’s because it’s a prehistoric survivor, a lingering remnant from the dinosaur days with roots that can delve six feet or more. Sometimes way more. A little flick of the trowel is not going to set it back for a hot minute. The Northwest has been home to quite a few species of Equisetum for millennia, surviving climatic changes that wiped dinosaurs off the map. Tough, enduring, and incredibly deep rooted, it’s small wonder that horsetails pop up in so many gardens.

A Horsetail For Every Garden

The most common form, field rush (Equisetum arvense) is found from wet lowlands to high alpine meadows. Where shade suppresses common horsetail, the same ecological niche is filled by its cousin, wood horsetail (E. sylvaticum). In wetter places, swamp horsetail (E. fluviatile) takes over, sometimes letting meadow horsetail (E. pratense) have a go in swampy fenlands. Non-flowering scouring rush, Equisetum hyemale, is an elegant creature often grown as an ornamental water plant in other parts of the country. In the Northwest, this slim, long-lined creature doesn’t get much respect. Neither does its slimmer cousin, E. variegatum, most often found at sea level.

Most dramatic of all the the giant horsetail, E. telmatiea, which can stretch close to 10 feet tall in preferred sites. As long as the preferred site isn’t your rose bed, this really is a magnificent plant that would look utterly at home in a big tropicalismo border full of bold foliage. Objectively, horsetail truly is a beautiful plant. I once visited a fancy florist shop in New York City where a stunning bowl held architectural, upright spears of “non-flowering scouring rush” and cost $150 (and this was decades ago, when that was still significant money). I thought I could retire rich, but the staff was not interested in buying horsetail from me. Oh well.

Mow Or Cut; Don’t Pull

Stunning or not, few of us welcome horsetail in our own backyards because it does not share well with others and is damnably difficult to remove. Though weekend warriors love to use chemicals on horsetail, even the strongest toxins only wipe out this season’s stalks. Mulching with plastic creates a lovely nursery bed; horsetail loves dank, dark, acid, anaerobic soil. The good news is that mowing is far more effective and environmentally sound. That’s because the best way to get rid of horsetail is to cut, not pull. Pulling a piece of horsetail actually stimulates new growth. Pull one stalk and you scar the root, causing a hydra-head of three or four or five new shoots to take its place. Cut that stalk at ground level, over and over, and you will slowly deplete the roots.

Sometimes horsetail comes in with a load of top soil or even (horrors!) compost-if so, never buy from that supplier again. That’s never good news, but at least you have a fighting chance of getting rid of it, because the shoots will be coming from broken bits of those deep, deep roots. Dig the stalks out whenever you see one and in time you can truly be free of this implacable beauty. It’s important to keep on the task, since horsetail is most vulnerable before it gets well established. The fresh green tops can be put in the compost, where they supply silica and other trace minerals in unusual abundance. However, don’t put even a tiny scrap of horsetail root in the compost or you will be sorry indeed. Bag or burn the roots, which can re-sprout pretty much all year round.

Now What?

If, however, horsetail is well established in your garden or lawn, the only way to get rid of horsetail permanently is to change the conditions it grows in, no small task. Horsetail often grows vigorously on recently cleared land, on home sites built over hardpan or clay, and around underground seeps that provide moisture deep below the soil surface. Sometimes the topsoil is sandy and loose, yet stands of horsetail persist. If you dig down, you’ll discover a layer of hardpan or heavy clay way down under that sand. Horsetail is an indicator plant, telling us loud and clear that somewhere on the scene, hard, heavy soil is lurking. The favored environment for horsetail is dense, damp soil that’s low in oxygen and high in moisture. 

Here in the maritime Northwest, such acid, airless clay soils abound. To make things worse, our native soils also tend to be very low in humus, the organic material that feed soil dwelling microbes. In order to eliminate horsetail, we need to create oxygen rich, nutrient rich, nearly neutral soil with lots of humus. To achieve this, we must do three things:

* Improve drainage to improve oxygen balance.
* Add humus (compost) to improve organic soil content.
* Neutralize your soil at least somewhat (compost again).

Beds Go Up, Paths Go Down

On heavy, retentive soils, excavate all your paths and fill with crushed gravel. By dropping the internal level of the paths even slightly, we can use them like French drains to direct the water off the garden site. The top surface of the path can remain level to the eye and foot, but the trench beneath the surface should drop about 3-4 inches over every 10 feet of run. At the end of the path, make a rain garden, or plant dwarf willows, redtwig dogwoods, and other moisture lovers that thrive in heavy, damp soils.

On heavy soils, it is critical to mound beds rather than excavate them. Digging out clay beds is like making nice little bathtubs in which to drown your innocent, unsuspecting plants. Resist the impulse to dig and go up instead. Mound any infested beds, giving them a positive soil profile of 8-12 inches above grade. Where possible, remove the plants first and improve the bed soil with a blend of fresh topsoil mixed with half the volume of mature compost. Mulch the whole bed with 2-3 inches of compost as well. Where you can’t dig up everything, add 4-6 inches of compost. To avoid smothering established plants, feather the compost so that there is no more than half an inch at the trunk or main stems of your plants.

Know When To Fold ‘Em

Where mounding is not possible (perhaps because of mature trees), spread dolomite lime at the rate suggested on the back of the bag. Next, mulch deeply with compost (2-4 inches), taking care not to smother the crowns of existing plants. Every spring and fall, spray the entire yard with aerobically brewed compost tea to increase microbial life, which improves oxygen levels in soil. Every spring and fall, mulch again with several inches of mature compost, always taking care not to smother existing plants. Do all these things faithfully and each year, your plants will look better and be healthier, and you’ll have less and less horsetail.

Sometimes, however, we have to suck it up and learn to love the horsetail. As a rule, horsetail or scouring rush should not be eradicated along natural streams or in natural bogs and wetlands where it is an important member of the ecological community. In such situations, it helps to interplant with hardy geraniums, or generously scatter seed of Verbena bonariensis, which make lovely seasonal companions for horsetail. If you can’t beat em…

Posted in Drainage, Garden Design, Garden Prep, Native Plants, Plant Diversity, Planting & Transplanting, Soil, Sustainable Gardening, Sustainable Living, Weed Control | Tagged , , , | 8 Comments

Fast Food For Vegan Meals

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Add basil to hummus and be ready to swoon with delight

Quick And Wholesome Snacks That Satisfy

Lately I’ve been working more than usual and spending less time at home, let alone in the kitchen. Even so, I’ve also been making food for several people who are currently unable to cook for themselves, and have significant dietary limitations. Ordinarily I enjoy such a culinary challenge, finding it stimulating to figure out what to feed folks who can’t eat what, dairy, fats or sugar. This week, however, preparing for two memorial services and fighting off an ear infection left me tired, vulnerable, cranky and dizzy (vertigo is often triggered by those dang ear/sinus conditions).

In such a situation, cooking is not very appealing, yet wholesome, nurturing food is more important than ever. Over the years, I’ve come up with a handful of speedy meals that are both easy to make and satisfying. Unlike a lot of fast food, these snacks and small meals leave me feeling better, not worse. All are plant-based foods suitable for vegetarians and vegans as well as hungry people in a hurry. For lunch today, my five year old granddaughter asked for yogurt and Granny Granola with bananas. We have this often, appreciating the play of flavors and textures as well as the fact that it can be ready in a hot minute.

Good For You Goodness

High in protein, our current house granola is delicious with yogurt (soy or whatever), stirred into cookies, or eaten out of hand. I don’t include almonds anymore since my dentist told me to knock off the hard nuts, but walnuts are crunchy yet too soft to do dental damage. I don’t add dried fruit because it gets rock hard after being mixed in with the oats, but we always add some kind of fresh fruit, whether chopped apples, peaches or pears, or bananas, blueberries, or raspberries. Sprinkle some over a fruit crumble for a lovely streusel topping, or stir some into melted bittersweet dark chocolate and spoon onto waxed paper for irresistible crunchy candy.

Granny Granola

1/2 cup avocado oil
1/2 cup coconut oil
1/2 cup maple syrup OR brown rice syrup
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
8 cups old fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup each of walnuts, sesame seeds, hulled pumpkin seeds, hulled sunflower seeds, flax seeds and pumpkin seeds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir to coat, then spread mixture evenly in a large, rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, then stir the mixture and spread evenly again. Return to oven and bake for another 10 minutes. Let cool, then store in tightly sealed canning jars. Makes about 8 cups (the seeds fall into the cracks somehow).

Happy Hummus

For those who can’t tolerate dairy, homemade hummus makes a delicious butter and cheese substitute. Tucked into pitas or slathered on sourdough rye rounds, it can be dressed up or down with the flick of the wrist. I buy mysteriously deep flavored Safinter smoked paprika in three versions; mild, which is gentle and tasty; hot (which is very hot indeed); and bittersweet, combining medium heat with a lovely mellow sweetness. Sunflower butter or almond butter works as well as tahini, a dash of lime juice instead of lemon adds enticing zip, while a swirl of pesto lifts ordinary hummus to a new level. To make the satiny-smoothest hummus, try blending ingredients in the order below, processing them longer than usual.

Velvet Hummus

3-4 tablespoons tahini, sunflower butter or almond butter
1 large organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt (or to taste)
1-2 tablespoons fruity olive oil OR avocado oil
1-1/2 cups cooked garbanzos, rinsed and drained
1-2 teaspoons bittersweet smoked paprika (or any)

In a food processor, combine tahini or whatever you choose with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and puree until very well blended (about 1 minute). Use a rubber scraper to push material from the side of the bowl back to the bottom and process for another 20-30 seconds. Add garlic and salt and process for another 30-45 seconds. Scrape the bowl again, add oil and 1 cup of garbanzos and process for about a minute. Scrape the bowl again, add remaining garbanzos and puree for another minute or more. Taste and adjust lemon juice, salt and garlic, adding water 1 tablespoon at a time to get the density/creaminess you want. Now add smoked paprika and process for 15-20 seconds. Store in covered glass jar in the fridge for up to a week. Makes about 1-1/2 cups.

Kale On Speed Dial

This fast and fabulous dish takes only a few minutes, smells tantalizing, and tastes great warm or as leftovers. Anything that combines kale with garlic is good already, but adding meaty chickpeas makes it a meal.

Kale With Chickpeas And Garlic

1 tablespoon avocado or olive oil
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 big bunch kale, cut into thin ribbons (chiffonade)
1/2 onion, chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1-1/2 cups cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Lime wedges

In a wide, shallow pan, combine oil and garlic over medium high heat until fragrant and golden. Add kale, onion, and salt, stir to coat, cover pan and cook until lightly wilted (2-3 minutes). Stir in chickpeas, add 1-2 tablespoons of water, cover pan and heat through until chickpeas start to pop. Season to taste with pepper and a squeeze of lime juice. Serves 2 as a main dish, 4 as a side.

 

 

 

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Pre-Season Tomatoes For Best Flavor

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Fabulous tomatoes are a little sweet and a little salty

Build Brix With Compost, Then Add Sea Salt

Given that the Maritime Northwest is not exactly prime tomato territory, it’s not super surprising that I’m often asked for tips on growing tastier tomatoes. From soil temperatures and nutritive quality to the varieties we’re growing, there are quite a few factors that influence the flavor of all fruits and vegetables. For starters, planting heat lovers in cold soil is enough to stunt their growth, and can even cause them to lose ground a bit. Grown as annuals in this climate, tomatoes have just a few months to develop to their full potential, and even a modest check can make a big difference to overall performance.

In addition, both over-watering and using high nitrogen fertilizer can dilute food crop flavors. Italian farmers traditionally teach that tomatoes must be grown on the dry side to develop the boldest flavor. What does that mean? Early in the season, water weekly as needed, carefully wetting down soil only, since foliage diseases love wet leaves. By August, allow the top inch or two of plant soil to dry out between waterings. By late September, letting foliage start to wilt a bit (not completely) between waterings will persuade the last fruits to ripen fully.

The Tasty Role Of Compost

When planting tomatoes, mulch generously with mature compost to bring out the best of their natural flavors. Compost mulch is as important for good tomato flavor as fertilizer, because it helps plants build and store natural sugars called brix. Brix is a measurable indicator of sugar content, and high brix counts give every edible from tomatoes to turnips a more nuanced and complex flavor profile. Compost also improves soil quality and texture, making it easier for roots to penetrate dense or airy soils, and promotes strong, sturdy plants by encouraging vigorous root growth. Roots are sometimes called “plant anchors”, keeping them upright while keeping them well nourished, and wide ranging roots can glean water and nutrients even from poor soils. Since most compost is close to pH neutral, it helps to balance acidic or alkaline soils as well (many edibles prefer pH neutral soils).

Such assistance in providing plants with nutrition is especially important for tomatoes, which are what’s known as gross feeders, meaning they require a lot of food to succeed. Tomato plants in pots will need frequent feeding (as in every 10-14 days), because fertilizers get washed out by repeated waterings. Plants in the ground can spread their roots a lot further, so feeding them once or twice a month is plenty. Where weather is unpredictable and variable, don’t rely on pelletized time-release fertilizers, as they don’t work when soil temperatures are below 70 degrees F. Instead, supplement both potting soil and garden soil with compost, and use natural fertilizers that combine quick and slow-release foods.

Pre-Seasoning With Sea Salt

Besides offering my tomato plants a mild, balanced organic fertilizer, I also give them kelp meal and/or a liquid seaweed extract. When tomato stems break before the fruit has a chance to ripen fully, the problem may arise when we use inadequate water-soluble fertilizers, especially common when tomatoes are grown in pots. Liquid seaweed extracts help strengthen weak stems by supporting steady plant growth even when cold nights follow warm days, a notoriously unhelpful occurrence. As a liquid or as meal, kelp combines micronutrients and trace elements with plant hormones and growth stimulants that promote root growth, improve stem and foliage density, and increase chlorophyll production. Kelp extracts also contain traces of sea salt. Aha!

For years now, I’ve enjoyed amazingly flavorful tomatoes, thanks to a strange little “secret”; pre-seasoning with sea salt. Surprisingly enough, a single dose of salty seawater (1 cup of seawater per quart of tap water) can greatly improve tomato flavor. After recently recounting this to some friends, I realized that I was forgetting how I came up with that recommendation, and dug out my old research notes. Here’s the story: For about a century, New Jersey was one of the top tomato growing regions of the USA. However, about 20 year go, those famous tomatoes were losing their savor. Eventually, various field trials and studies revealed that changes in commercial fertilizer ingredients had resulted in reductions of measurable sodium in the rich New Jersey soils.

A Little Salt, A Little Sugar

Though too much salt can kill plants, they need a little bit to develop their fullest flavor. Where soils retained sodium, tomatoes had greater variety and concentrations of the sugars and acids that influence the tomato flavor profile. As every Italian cook knows, a rich red pasta sauce needs both a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar to come into balance. The farmers found that adding compost to soils helped plants build brix, and amending salt-stripped field soils with mined sea salt boosted soil levels of sodium, chloride, and many other minerals in trace amounts. Rather than soaking their fields with seawater, farmers use an agricultural product called SEA90, a version of which is available to home gardeners as well. Once the sweet/salty soil balance was restored, so was the robust, bold flavor of those famous tomatoes.
Home gardeners who don’t live near a source of fresh sea water can find a wide range of sea salt and mineral soil supplements here:

www.SeaAgri.com 

As one researcher reports:
“For growers interested in conducting a small trial to evaluate the effect of salt fertilizer on tomato taste here is a suggested protocol: Use 46 grams of to treat an area 4 square feet or land area needed to grow one tomato plant. Apply the treatment by mixing the SEA-90 product into the soil at time of planting. Flag the treated plant and perform your own personal taste test by comparing the treated fruits to other fruits of the same tomato variety from another part of the field. Leave some border space between plants when sampling fruits for comparing treated and untreated plants.

An alternative approach is to use sea water from the Atlantic Ocean. {Or Pacific, of course} 1300 ml (or 0.35 gallons) of sea water contains about 46 grams of salt which is enough to treat one tomato plant. Apply this seawater as a soil drench around the base of the plant two weeks after transplanting. To prevent leaf burn, do not allow the seawater to touch the leaves.”

Onward, right?

 

Posted in Care & Feeding, Planting & Transplanting, Sustainable Gardening, Tomatoes | Tagged , , | 2 Comments