Extracts Of Summer

Blueberry vinegar is the nectar of the divine

Flavorful Vinegars Keep Summer Alive

It’s high summer here, and the kitchen is full of fruit and vegetables, from figs and blueberries, nectarines and plums to squash and eggplants, tomatoes and peppers. Besides what we’re sharing with neighbors or eating fresh, we’re freezing and canning several times a week. I’m also making all sorts of vinegars, which we use for marinades as well as in dressings. Herbed, spicy, or fruity, vinegars add zip to salads both fruity and green as well as hot or chilled salads of potatoes, beets, and beans. My kitchen usually holds at least a dozen kinds of vinegars and they are always popular holiday gifts for family and friends.

Such specialty vinegars are made with hot vinegars, usually cider or rice based, depending on the flavor profile you want. Spicier vinegars that are lively with chili peppers and garlic are sometimes made with wine vinegar, which adds extra depth to the end result. To avoid weird metallic off-flavors, always heat vinegar in a non-reactive saucepan made of stainless steel or enamel and don’t use copper, cast iron, or aluminum pans. Whether flavored with herbs, vegetables, or spices, specialty vinegars are set aside to infuse for several days or even weeks before being carefully strained and rebottled in sterile containers. Make sure you remember to do this step as suggested in the recipe both by labeling the jars with the timing schedule and by marking your calendar to jog your memory (mine needs it, anyway).

The Value Of Small Batches

Until you settle on recipes that please you, it’s wise to make small batches of flavored vinegars (or pretty much anything, really). Write down everything you add so you can scale up the successes and modify any failures by adjusting seasoning or using sharper or milder vinegars. The quality of any flavored vinegar depends on the freshness of the additions and the base vinegar you choose: save gallon jugs of harsh white vinegar for cleaning windows. Milder vinegars such as unseasoned rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar will showcase the fruit and/or herbs, though mellow red or white wine vinegars can also be a good match for livelier additions.

Start out with one of the recipes below, then modify to your taste, experimenting to bring out the best in what ever’s most abundant in the garden. Use favorite combinations of herbs and spices, try pairing different kinds of peppercorns with lemon, orange, lime or grapefruit zest, as well various types of garlic and peppers. If some peppery vinegars taste a little harsh at first, a further period of rest time lets them mellow before using. At every stage, store specialty vinegars in a cool, dim place, not a sunny window, since the heat and light can cloud the vinegar and may even promote unwelcome bacterial growth.

Basic Herb Vinegar

2 cups red wine or cider vinegar
1/3 cup fresh herbs such as basil, fennel, tarragon, etc.

Bring vinegar to a boil in a small saucepan. Roll fresh herbs lightly with a rolling pin and put them in a clean pint jar. Pour in hot vinegar and close jar. Infuse for up to 2 weeks, tasting every few days until you like the intensity. When it’s just right, strain through muslin or a coffee filter into a sterilized bottle and seal. Use within 3 months.

Fabulous Fruity Vinegars

Nothing you can buy can match the power and purity of flavors when you make vinegars with freshly picked fruit. Some of our friends mix these vinegars with seltzer water for a very refreshing summer pick-me-up. I’ve been known to sip them straight or even pour a little over homemade peach ice cream…

Fresh Raspberry Vinegar

2 cups tart raspberries (slightly unripe ones work well)
1-1/2 cups cider vinegar or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey (preferably raspberry honey)

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Fresh Blueberry Vinegar

2 cups blueberries (tart ones work best)
2 cups cider vinegar
1 tablespoon grated lemon or orange zest
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Cucumber & Dill Vinegar

2 cups coarsely chopped cucumber
1/4 cup dill sprigs, lightly packed
2 cups plain (unseasoned) rice vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 48 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.

Nectarine & Lavender Vinegar

2 cups finely chopped ripe nectarines
2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dried lavender buds
2 cups plain (unseasoned) rice vinegar
1/4 cup sugar or honey

Combine all ingredients with 1/3 cup water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium low, cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour into a clean jar, cover and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. The next day, strain into a clean bowl through a fine sieve or muslin, pressing gently to get all the liquid out. Pour liquid into a clean bottle, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Makes about 2 cups.