Savoring The Herbs Of Spring

Fresh, Piquant Green Sauces

With the weather swinging wildly back and forth between blazing and cooler, foggy days, our meals plans swing too: chili today, salad tomorrow? Even on a chilly day, heavy winter meals feel out of place, yet we crave something hot and hearty. Fresh, spunky herbal sauces help resolve the split, working equally well served over hot quinoa, brown rice or pasta, or used to dress an entree salad. These quick, garden-based sauces also make lively garnishes or marinades for poultry or fish. They are quite flexible, so if any sauce features an herb you aren’t nuts about, you can swap freely for something you enjoy more.

On rainy days, drizzle one of these bright young things over roasted cauliflower or sweet potatoes, or drop a dollop into a bowl of vegetable soup (add some toasted pumpkin seeds for an intriguing crunch). On warm evenings, enliven a raw asparagus salad with Garden Goddess dressing, or spoon a little over grilled fish. Spread these sauces on sandwiches or crackers, use them as dips for baby veg, or savor them in wraps with crisp red Romaine and chunks of cucumber and green onions.

(Mostly) From The Garden

Here’s my latest, lightest version of the former classic Green Goop dressing. If you don’t do fish, some flaked nutritional yeast will add body and umami-yumminess.

Garden Goddess Dressing

1 cup chopped flat Italian parsley (stems and all)
1/4 cup chopped tarragon
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1 teaspoon stemmed thyme
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 organic lemon, juiced, rind zested
3-4 anchovies (from jar or can), chopped
1 cup plain Greek style yogurt
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor, combine herbs, garlic, and anchovies and pulse to a rough paste. Stir in yogurt and 1 teaspoon lemon zest, then add lemon juice, salt. and pepper to taste. Makes about 1-1/4 cups. Refrigerate any leftovers for up to 3 days.

Italian Parsley Sauce

Rich with ground hazelnuts and cheese, this Perugina parsley sauce enhances pretty much anything savory, from spring greens to asparagus, new potatoes, and baby peas. It’s also great over hot pasta or rice, especially when topped with crumbles of soft goat cheese. Use flat Italian parsley and include the thinner stems as well as the foliage for a more intense flavor. If you don’t do dairy, again add some flaked nutritional yeast to boost that cheesy-nutty flavor.

Salsa di Prezzemolo E Noccioli

2 cups chopped Italian parsley, well packed (with stems)
1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1/2 cup fruity Italian olive oil
1/4 cup grated Romano or Asiago cheese
1-2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon capers, drained

In a food processor, grind parsley, hazelnuts, and garlic to a coarse paste. Slowly add the oil, with machine running, then add cheese and pulse a few times to blend. Season to taste with cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Stir in capers and serve at room temperature. Makes about 1 cup. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.

Nutty Herb Sauces

Basil pesto is far from the only Italian sauce to combine nuts and herbs. Here are some alternatives that you may find equally or even more appealing. Any or all make pleasant partners for a wide range of foods, and all can be modified by changing the nuts (try pumpkin or sunflower seeds instead) or the herbs (thyme, rosemary, sage, cilantro, marjoram). You get the idea, I’m sure.

Italian Walnut Sauce

1 cup toasted walnuts
1 shallot, chopped
1 cup chopped arugula
2/3 cup fruity Italian olive oil
1-2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

In a food processor, grind walnuts, shallot, and arugula to a coarse paste. Slowly add the oil, with machine running, then season to taste with wine vinegar, salt and pepper. Makes about 1 cup. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.

The Sweetness Of Spring Garlic

When newly harvested, garlic has a sweetness that mellows its bite. If you don’t grow garlic chives, use fresh garlic greens from your spring-planted crop.

Spring Garlic Sauce

1/4 cup toasted almonds
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 organic lemon, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons pitted, chopped brine-cured olives
1/4 cup fruity olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon stemmed thyme
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon hot smoked paprika
2 tablespoons minced garlic chives

In a food processor or blender, grind almonds to a coarse paste. Add garlic, lemon and olives and again grind to a coarse paste. Add oil, parsley, thyme, salt and paprika and puree for 3-5 seconds. Stir in minced chives and serve at room temperature. Makes about 1 cup. Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.