Classic Crab Cakes

Of Crab Cakes And Cauliflower

Block print by Karen Beason

Lately, my 90 year old mum has been asking for crab cakes. She enjoys them all year long, but to me, crab cakes are a seasonal treat . Though the Alaska King crab season is done, local crabbing will continue through December. Near as we are to Dungeness spit, where the crabbing is famous, we can get lovely fresh crab at our local market, so I was happy to oblige her. (OK, I would have anyway, of course, though frozen crab is not my favorite.)

There are all kinds of recipes out there for crab cakes, some with ingredients lists as long as my arm, other that are practically plain fried crabmeat. My favorite version lies somewhere in between; the crab is the dominant note, accompanied by companionable vegetables. I even developed a vegan version, though I dislike fake anything, so instead of calling it vegan “crab” cakes I just tell it like it is! The resulting Vegan Cauliflower Cakes are so yummy everybody likes them, and they make a pleasing entree for those who eschew seafood.

Seasoning Crab Cakes

* Though many crab cakes are over-seasoned, I think they do need a touch of heat. I use just a little horseradish, which adds warmth and zip without the peppery bite of chilies. However, most prepared horseradish is revolting stuff, gummy and sugary rather than slightly creamy and cleanly pungent. The best brand I’ve found is Bubbie’s, which contains only horseradish, vinegar, salt and a little cane sugar (not high fructose corn syrup, yuck) along with a touch of mustard oil. If you can’t find that or something similar, try a dash of Tabasco instead….

Dungeness Crab Cakes

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
4 green onions, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
2 teaspoons capers, drained
1 teaspoon grated horseradish*
1 pound cooked lump Dungeness crabmeat, flaked
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup fresh wholegrain bread crumbs (grated)
1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed
1 lemon, cut in wedges

Combine 1 teaspoon each of butter and oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat. When sizzling, add green onions, celery, salt and pepper and cook until vegetables are barely soft (3-4 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in parsley, capers, and flaked crabmeat, sorting out any shell bits first. In a bowl, combine the horseradish, mayonnaise, mustard and eggs. Add half the breadcrumbs and all the crab mixture and blend well. Form into 4 patties, gently coat with remaining bread crumbs and chill, covered, for 30 minutes. When chilled, add remaining oil and butter to the frying pan over medium high heat. When hot, add garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add patties. Reduce heat to medium and cook until bottom is crisp and golden (4-5 minutes). Carefully flip, preserving crispy crust, and cook second side. Serve hot, garnished with fresh lemon wedges. Makes 4 cakes; serves at least one.

A Vegetarian Version

These crispy little critters taste wonderfully rich, thanks to a meltingly lovely combination of mayonnaise and soft goat cheese.

Vegetarian Cauliflower Cakes

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
4 green onions, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
2 cups cauliflower, cut into small florets
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
2 teaspoons capers, drained
1 teaspoon grated horseradish*
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 ounces soft goat cheese
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup fresh wholegrain bread crumbs (grated)
1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed
1 lemon, cut in wedges

Combine 1 teaspoon each of butter and oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat. When sizzling, add green onions, celery, cauliflower, salt and pepper and cook until cauliflower is tender (6-8 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in parsley and capers. In a bowl, cream together the horseradish, mayonnaise, goat cheese, mustard and egg. Add half the breadcrumbs and the cauliflower mixture and blend well. Form into 4 patties, gently coat with remaining bread crumbs, and chill, covered, for 30 minutes. When chilled, add remaining oil and butter to the frying pan over medium high heat. When hot, add garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add patties. Reduce heat to medium and cook until bottom is crisp and golden (4-5 minutes). Carefully flip, preserving crispy crust, and cook second side. Serve hot, garnished with fresh lemon wedges. Makes 4 cakes; serves at least one.

And A Vegan Version

This version, too, is decidedly tasty and just as simple to prepare.

Vegan Cauliflower Cakes

1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
4 green onions, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped peppadew peppers (seeded)
2 cups cauliflower, cut into small florets
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
2 teaspoons capers, drained
1 cup silken tofu
1 teaspoon grated horseradish*
1 lemon, rind grated, cut in wedges
1 cup fresh wholegrain bread crumbs (grated)
1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat. When sizzling, add green onions, celery, peppers, cauliflower, and half the salt and pepper and cook until cauliflower is tender (6-8 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in parsley and capers. In a bowl, mash the tofu with remaining salt and pepper, horseradish, and grated lemon zest. Add half the breadcrumbs and the cauliflower mixture and blend well. Form into 4 patties, gently coat with remaining bread crumbs, and chill, covered, for 30 minutes. When chilled, add remaining oil to the frying pan over medium high heat. When hot, add garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add patties. Reduce heat to medium and cook until bottom is crisp and golden (4-5 minutes). Carefully flip, preserving crispy crust, and cook second side. Serve hot, garnished with fresh lemon wedges. Makes 4 cakes; serves at least one.