A Glut Of Gorgeous Fruit
We’ve been feasting on ripe cherries for several weeks now. At first, nothing tastes better and we eat them by the bowlful. Now, though they still taste awesome, we are starting to get more inventive about using them. One thing I’ve discovered is that cherries will keep better if I soak them in cold water for an hour or so. Though sun warm cherries fresh off the tree taste amazing, after a day or two, they lose a little of their luster.
When I buy cherries at the market, I give them a long, chilly soak, which improves their texture, then drain them well before refrigerating. I especially like cold cherries, perhaps because the best cherries I ever had as a child were served in a huge silver bowl of ice at the Singing Beach Club in Massachusetts. Hot sun on wet hair, warm sand on bare feet, skin goose-bumped from cold ocean water and mouth delighted by chilled cherries melded into a perfect whole that I’ve never forgotten.
Some Like It Hot
However, though I also enjoy cherries cooked in the usual pies and tarts and whatnot, I appreciate their intricate flavor best in savory dishes, especially partnered with chicken or salmon or shrimp. Use them instead of the ubiquitous dried cranberries in chicken salad, or poach a few in white wine along with boned, skinless chicken, red onion, and tarragon or dill. Roast them to a glazed, caramelized finish as a side for grilled fish, or toss them with maple syrup and spices before roasting as an astonishing treat with raspberry ice cream or almost anything you can think of. Caramelized cherry shortcake? Cake decoration? Salads? Curry? What are you waiting for?
I have a little cherry pitter that works about half the time. Usually, I end up cutting the cherries in half, rotating the two halves in opposite directions to loosen the pit, then flicking it out with the knife or my fingertip. It’s surprisingly fast, though be sure to wear the kind of apron or shirt you would choose when preparing to seed a pomegranate or chop beets. If you do get juice on your nice clothing, try removing it with Bac-Out (made by Bioclean). It’s remarkably effective at removing stains made by wine, chocolate, blood, tea and other challenging substances.
Caramelized Savory Cherries
2 cups pitted sweet cherries, halved
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 organic lime, juiced, rind grated
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
OR smoked paprika
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Toss cherries, olive oil, lime rind, sea salt and pepper with half the lime juice, then spread cherries in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, cut-side down. Roast until edges are browned (15-20 minutes). Toss with remaining lime juice and serve with fish or chicken or sweet corn, or…. Serves 1-4.
Curried Caramelized Cherries
2 cups pitted sweet cherries, halved
1 tablespoon coconut oil, melted
1 organic lime, juiced, rind grated
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon curry powder or paste
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Toss cherries, olive oil, lime rind, sea salt and curry powder or paste with half the lime juice, then spread cherries in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, cut-side down. Roast until edges are browned (15-20 minutes). Toss with remaining lime juice and serve over basmati rice with fish or chicken or any vegetable…. Serves 1-4.
Caramelized Sweet Cherries
2 cups pitted sweet cherries, halved
1 tablespoon rice or safflower oil
1/2 large organic lemon, juiced, rind grated
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Toss cherries, oil, lemon rind, and spices with half the lemon juice, then spread cherries in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, cut-side down, reserving extra juice. Roast until edges are browned (15-20 minutes). Toss with remaining juices and serve over ice cream, bread pudding, rice pudding, or use the extra juices in a marinade or dressing for green or fruit salads…. Serves 1-4.
Cherry Chicken Salad
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons plain rice vinegar
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups mixed greens
1 head Romaine, sliced in ribbons
1 small head radicchio, shredded
2 cups cooked chicken, in bite-sized pieces
1/4 cup red onion, chopped
1 cup sugar snap peas, in 1-inch pieces
1 Italian sweet pepper (or any sweet pepper), chopped
1/2 cup caramelized cherries (any kind)
In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, basil and salt, set aside. In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients except cherries, drizzle with dressing, toss gently, divide between 4 plates and serve, topped with cherries. Serves 4.