Sweet And Savory Condiments
Though lovely, the prolonged autumn wasn’t all that warm, and the abbreviated summer left a lot of not-quite-ripe fruits and vegetables lingering in the garden. Happily, slightly unripe produce is perfect for making jams and chutneys. In my busy kitchen, apples, plums and pears join green and red tomatoes and peppers in an assortment of condiments that will carry a taste of summer well into winter.
French Green Tomato Jam is a traditional “slow food”, cooked and rested over several days. Beautifully thick and almost creamy in quality, it has a vivid, complex flavor that complements both sweet and savory dishes. Add this versatile stuff to a garlic vinaigrette or spoon it over ice cream, serve it with grilled salmon or toss it with chopped apples and raisins. It’s so good, especially when made with unripe Indigo Rose tomatoes, some of which are still hard as little black rocks, but oh so flavorful.
French Green Tomato Jam
8 cups green tomatoes, chopped
4 cups sugar
2 organic lemons, juiced, rind grated
1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
Combine tomatoes, sugar, lemon juice and rind in a bowl, cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight. Pour into a deep saucepan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Return to refrigerator, covered, for 8 hours or overnight. Again, bring to a boil in a saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Skim foam (if any) Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 6 cups.
Sweet-hot Green Pepper Jam can be used in similar ways and makes an intriguing sandwich spread when mixed with canned tuna or soft tofu. It’s also lovely on crackers with green apples and goat cheese. You can also use red, orange, or yellow peppers, all of which are rather sweeter and need less sugar to balance the bite. If you prefer a tarter taste, cut the sugar back to as little as 1/3 cup. The jam will have a softer set but will taste more complex.
Hot Green Pepper Jam
4 green peppers, seeded and chopped
2 white or yellow onions, chopped
2 organic lemons, juiced, rind grated
1 inch fresh ginger root, coarsely grated
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups sugar
In a saucepan, combine peppers, onion, lemon juice and rind, ginger, salt and pepper with water to cover. Bring to a simmer, stir in sugar and cook gently until soft (25-30 minutes). ÌSpoon into sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 4 cups.
Savory and spicy, Autumn Chutney can be made with peaches as well as pears, and there’s plenty of latitude in the seasoning (try a little garam masala, for instance). Serve this lush chutney with fish or chicken or brush over roasted root vegetables and broil for a few seconds.
Autumn Chutney
2 white or yellow onions, chopped
2 green apples, cored, chopped
2 firm pears, cored and chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup golden raisins
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1/3 cup sugar
In a saucepan, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to∞ low and simmer until thick (25- 30 minutes), stirring occasionally. Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 4 cups.
Spunky Pear Chutney makes a lively partner for pork or chicken and tastes wonderful spread on rye bread and toasted till bubbly. Chopped finely into sour cream or plain yogurt, it makes a delicious Creamy Chutney Dressing for greens or fruit salads.
Pear Chutney
8 cups pears, cored and chopped
2 large onions, chopped
1 cup dried tart cherries or cranberries
1/2 cup candied ginger, chopped
2 inches fresh ginger, coarsely grated
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon fennel seed
2 cups cider vinegar
1/2 cup sugar
In a saucepan, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until thick (60-90 minutes), stirring occasionally. Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 6 cups.
Creamy Chutney Dressing
1 cup plain yogurt or sour cream (nonfat works fine)
1/2 cup chutney, finely chopped
2 teaspoons lime juice
1/4 cup cilantro, stemmed
Combine all ingredients and let stand for 15-30 minutes. Serve at room temperature. Makes about 1-1/2 cups.